Julian Klausner on Designing His Best Dries Van Noten Collection Yet

The Run-Through with Vogue

In his first podcast appearance, Julian Klausner discusses his critically acclaimed Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection for Dries Van Noten, revealing how cinematic glamour

Key takeaways

• Klausner's Spring 2027 collection features imagined movie posters and a 'movie star meets picking up the kids' aesthetic that blends red-carpet glamour with practical streetwear.
• He describes his role at Dries Van Noten as shifting from expanding the brand's world to narrowing its vision, focusing on wardrobe staples, texture, and playful embellishments.

Main topics

• Spring 2027 collection inspiration
• Dries Van Noten brand identity & archive

Notable quotes

"I like to imagine what would Marilyn Monroe be looking like if today she had to run errands after a day of filming."

Conclusion

Klausner's candid conversation provides a rare glimpse into the though

Transcript preview

Speaker 5 (0:00) Alright guys, I'm outside the Schiaparelli show. It's almost 8 p.m. And I think it just ended. I see people walking out. Speaker 5 (0:12) Okay guys, I found Chloe. She told me she's right in the middle of the arch, so I'm running to find her. Speaker 5 (0:24) This is The Run-Through. I'm Chloe Moe. Speaker 5 (0:28) Nice to see you. Hi honey. Hey. I love this outfit. What are you wearing? Speaker 1 (0:32) Thank Speaker 5 (0:32) you Speaker 2 (0:32) so Speaker 5 (0:32) much. Do a fit check for the pod. My fit check is skirt and shirt drees. I usually don't love a head to toe look. You can't not do it when it's a good drees moment. Totally. Well, I would love to hear about your day. I started my day at the Vogue Cafe. And... Then I went to Chloe, which after yesterday's rain showers and not dressed in a prepared way, I was very appreciative of. Speaker 5 (1:00) reinvented trenches and full not only rain jackets but rain hats. And I went backstage for Chloe so that was very fun. I loved it's a big bra moment. A lot of bralettes everywhere including last night at the Zarbai Jongaliano dinner where you got to shop the collection afterwards. Unfortunately the bralette that I wanted was sold out but it was very pretty. Speaker 5 (1:28) Let's hear from Jordan about what he thought about the Schiaparelli show. Hi, Speaker 1 (1:32) Jordan. This is a podcast, a Vogue podcast. Hi, Vogue podcast. I'm on the run through. Yes. I have been waiting to run through with you. And here we are. Run Speaker 5 (1:43) through Speaker 1 (1:43) your highlight pieces from Schiaparelli. Okay, so first look. It's a dress. It's a suit. It's a perfect silhouette. All in one. It's Speaker 5 (1:52) a bird. It's a plane. Speaker 1 (1:53) It's Schiaparelli. Speaker 1 (1:57) What else did I love? I loved those resort dresses that were straw hats that then kind of became woven into these beautiful Target dresses. And also just this sort of effortless, gorgeous silks falling off the body. Silk shirts with that sort of midriff cutout. I Speaker 5 (2:19) liked the gold croquis. Yes! Speaker 1 (2:23) I mean, you know, it's Scab, so you're going to get your accessories. Speaker 5 (2:26) Oh, look at you. Jordan is wearing a trompe l'oeil clutch that has gold and diamond fingers clutching his finger. Oh, Speaker 1 (2:35) if I were really thinking, I would have put the diamonds on this other hand. Speaker 5 (2:39) Oh, it's so true. Well, Speaker 1 (2:40) I put the ring, but I meant over here. All right, well, there's always next season. There Speaker 5 (2:45) we go. Thank you, Jordan. Yeah, thank Speaker 1 (2:47) you. Happy podcast. Thanks. Speaker 5 (2:50) All right, guys. That's today. Chloe's saving my life. Speaker 5 (2:56) Okay, we are trying to see if we can have a quick chat with the amazing hairstylist today at Speaker 6 (3:04) Chloe. Speaker 5 (3:07) I'm not sure. Speaker 8 (3:09) It's hard to squeeze through the little rows. I see that he's working on. What are we seeing right Speaker 1 (3:14) now? We're seeing him... So Speaker 8 (3:17) right now he's like hitting dry hair with a little bit of a blow dry, heating it up and then twisting it. And they're like almost twisting it into this like Heidi look. He wants some more girls in his chair. So the girl that's sitting down now already has her hair Heidi'd. Now we can see the post-Heidi look. Yeah. And they're basically taking these twists down, running their fingers through it, and it does look... See, this is a hot tip. This is what I should be doing. Yeah. Because I like to... It's like the opposite of, like, a super heat style. Like, they're getting a wave without it being, like... Speaker 1 (3:56) Have Speaker 8 (3:56) you seen people saying Utah curls? No. It's like the opposite of that. But I see the extensions too, and they definitely used a ton of extensions last season. Last season, Anthony even made the hair jewelry that walked the runway. This season, we're standing next to a huge suitcase that's open full of every color of extension. And I think that's also something that we should be thinking about is when we see a hair look that looks really natural and looks really beautiful, a lot of times they're invisibly wearing someone else's hair. Totally. Speaker 8 (4:34) Do you want to give a line or is it not the time? I can give a line. All right. As Speaker 6 (4:37) long Speaker 8 (4:37) as Speaker 6 (4:37) you don't mind me doing her while I'm doing it. We want you to. That adds Speaker 8 (4:39) to the, it enhances the moment. Here's Speaker 6 (4:41) next. What do you need to know? I Speaker 8 (4:44) just want to know what the technique is today. The technique is basically Speaker 6 (4:48) like a better, like, it's very much, um... Speaker 6 (4:54) Okay, come and sit down. It's... How many more? Speaker 6 (5:01) You're good. You're good. She's good Speaker 6 (5:04) It's basically the quintessential Chloe woman. So it feels, you know, there's all of the Chloe icons in this show. So it feels like we're sort of honoring that. We're honoring what the Chloe girl is to Shamina. And although... Speaker 6 (5:21) It's very much the Chloe girl, which is very much about freedom and very much about femininity. We are looking at each girl as an individual and not sort of making everybody the same. So we're looking at each girl's texture, each girl's hair length, and we're just enhancing that and sort of adapting it to this sort of Chloe world. Speaker 8 (5:40) I love it. And you're adding a little bit of hair this season again. Are you right, Anthony? Speaker 6 (5:44) Only where really necessary. If I can get away with it, I won't. Just because I don't, it's not about glamour. It's about coolness. Great. Thank Speaker 5 (5:53) you so much. Beautiful Speaker 6 (5:54) work. Speaker 5 (5:55) No worries. Thanks, Speaker 8 (5:56) Anthony. Speaker 5 (5:58) Thank you so much, Arden, as always. Speaker 8 (6:00) Thanks, Chelsea. Thanks for coming. And maybe I'll see you at Isabel Marant later. Speaker 5 (6:03) Yeah, maybe we'll see each other at Isabel Marant. All right, bye. And Speaker 8 (6:05) maybe the Vogue Cafe tomorrow. Yes, Speaker 5 (6:07) definitely. Speaker 3 (6:12) This is The Run-Through. I'm Nicole Phelps here in the Paris Condé Nast studios. One thing that everybody can agree on this fashion week is that Julian Klausner had a terrific Dries van Noten show, his best yet for the brand. In fact, colleagues of mine have said that it's their favorite show in Paris so far. And lucky for us, Julian agreed to do his first ever podcast with Vogue. We'll be right back after the break. Speaker 5 (6:47) One day last year, police entered a mansion in L.A. County and discovered the couple that lived there had almost two dozen children, nearly every one of them born through surrogates. But those surrogates had been deceived. I started crying. I was like, what the heck did I just get myself into? I'm Ava Kaufman. The Journey is a new series from In the Dark and The New Yorker. Find it now in the In the Dark podcast feed. Speaker 1 (7:19) Are you ready to push your baking skills? This Speaker 5 (7:21) month at Bon Appetit Bake Club, we are making glazed apple pie fritters. I'm Shilpa Skokovic. And Speaker 1 (7:27) I'm Jesse Sepchik. Speaker 5 (7:29) And we're senior Test Kitchen editors at Bon Appetit and the hosts of BA's Bake Club podcast. Bake Speaker 1 (7:34) Club is Bon Appetit's community of confident, curious bakers. Speaker 5 (7:37) Every month, we publish a recipe on bonappetit.com that introduces a baking concept we think you should know. Speaker 1 (7:43) Then you'll go bake and send us any questions you have. Speaker 5 (7:46) And we'll get together here on the podcast to talk about the recipe. And Speaker 1 (7:50) if you want to master deep frying, this is your chance. Speaker 5 (7:53) Head to BA.com or our sub stack and come and bake along with us. Join Speaker 1 (7:57) us the first Tuesday of every month as we debrief about the latest bake. Speaker 5 (8:01) Find BA Bake Club wherever you get your podcasts. Happy Speaker 1 (8:04) baking. Speaker 7 (8:09) From Vanity Fair, I'm Mark Aduchi, and I want to tell you about our new show, Fair Game. On every episode of Fair Game, I'll sit down with a leading character in our culture, from the worlds of Hollywood, politics, style, Silicon Valley, and beyond. Fair Game is a deep dive into some of the personalities that shape our world and the stories that you need to hear. Think everyone and everything that you'd read about in the pages of Vanity Fair. So join me, Mark Aduchi, on YouTube, VanityFair.com, and wherever you listen to podcasts. It's all fair game. Speaker 3 (8:54) Julian Klausner, welcome. We are speaking here in Paris just two days after your spring 2027 show, your fourth for the house. I thought it was your best collection yet. How do you feel? How do you think it went? Hi, Speaker 2 (9:07) Nicole. Thank you for having me. It's a pleasure to be here. I feel good. I'm very, very happy that the reactions have been really positive. And the content looks good. We released a video and everything went well. So, you know, I always get a big relief for the team. And yeah, I'm happy. Speaker 3 (9:26) Dries van Noten, who you took over for two years ago, said in the past that it's bad luck to talk about a collection before the show. But of course, now we are two days past. So tell us about the collection. What was the starting point this season for you? Speaker 2 (9:43) Well, we usually start our collections with a conversation around the table. right after the show. So, you know, like next week I'll be having the next conversation for the winter collection. And that time we kind of had a feeling for glamour. It's something we were talking about and we had a really nice brainstorm about what does glamour mean or what are things you do to feel glamorous. And I thought there was something very charming about the idea that actually it's quite a common feeling that once in a while you just want to feel a little bit glamorous than any other day. And so what came out of that conversations were, you know, of course, jewelry, brooch, I love a brooch because it can kind of glamorize any, any piece of garment that you have in your wardrobe, the sensation of a tight glove or a cinched belt or wearing a bright color. And this idea of glamour led us to movies, movie stars, screen sirens. I love this idea. And thinking about actresses on and off screen. So from that, we created movie posters. We imagined movies. And that's the biggest part of the prints. And yeah, we approached this idea of glamour in a very innocent, sweet way. And I feel sometimes there can be a negative connotation to being overdressed or being done up. But I wanted to celebrate the joy of dressing up once in a while. Speaker 3 (11:02) The movies had very interesting, fun titles, Lacquer and Lace and Viper, which is Viper for the Americans listening. And