6 new things we saw at New York Fashion Week
The Glossy Podcast
Senior Fashion Reporter Danny Parisi and Editor-in-Chief Jill Manoff recap the most notable highlights from the recent New York Fashion Week
Key takeaways
- CFDA President Stephen Kolb faced scrutiny after being recorded in a physical altercation with PETA protesters during a Koss show.
- The Spring 2027 season was the first official calendar season without fur in any shows following CFDA's anti-fur initiatives.
Main topics
- CFDA Controversy
- Fashion Accessibility and Casualization
Notable quotes
I think touching another human. Let's think twice at any circumstance.
Conclusion
The episode highlights a significant shift in NYFW toward more accessi
Transcript preview
Speaker 1 (0:04) Hello and welcome back to the Glossy Podcast. I'm your host, Senior Fashion Reporter Danny Parisi, and I'm here with our Editor-in-Chief, Jill Manoff. Hello, Jill. Speaker 2 (0:13) Hi, how was your Fashion Week? Speaker 1 (0:15) It was good. It was so nice seeing you. We ran into each other at the Retrofet show. We obviously were both at the Glossy Pop NYC event, so I saw you twice this week, which was fun. Speaker 2 (0:25) That was wild. Yeah, so good to see you. Speaker 1 (0:28) Yes, and this week we are discussing New York Fashion Week because we're recording this Wednesday morning. It just ended. We wanted to do a quick recap of some of the things we saw at New York Fashion Week this season. And particularly, we thought we would structure this conversation around what's new. What are some new things we saw? So we each have collected three things that are new that we saw, something that was unusual or exciting. And we don't know what each other's three. I think you know what one of mine is, the first one. what each of our three new things is. We may overlap, we may not. But let's just, let's start discussing. The one that you know, because we talked about it beforehand, is the first new thing that I saw was the president of the CFDA getting into a violent altercation with a protester. That's definitely something I have not seen. That never Speaker 2 (1:15) happened? What? Speaker 1 (1:16) I've never seen that at a fashion week before. But yeah, this week, and probably a lot of listeners have already heard about this, but Stephen Kolb, who is the president of the CFDA, during a Koss show was recorded getting into a pretty aggressive looking altercation with protesters from PETA who had disrupted the show. In the clips I saw, he can be seen restraining them, covering their mouths, pressing them against the wall. at one point sitting with his leg over someone and covering their mouth. And yeah, it was, I mean, even if you disagree that, or even if you agree that disrupting the show was bad or whatever and wanted those people removed, I don't think it's a good look for the president himself to be physically involving himself. I don't know. It was just an odd decision, I think. What do you think, Joan? Speaker 2 (2:08) I think touching another human. Let's think twice at any circumstance. And I don't know what was going through his head. Honestly, I feel like there's probably no excuse. I was thinking of any other instance where PETA has run out in the hallway and into a runway and where somebody has kind of had to interject. And the only thing that came to mind was I think it was a Chanel show. And I think like Gigi Hadid or one of the Hadid sisters kind of like walked them over to the side. It was very like. no, we're going over here. There was no pushing or fighting or elbowing or whatever we just did here. Speaker 1 (2:48) Yeah. And the odd thing to me from seeing some of the video is there is a security team and you can see them like escorting people out. So if it was me and, you know, I'm not the president of the FDA, but if I was, I feel like I would just sit back and kind of let the security team handle it because I don't think any, there's no controversy about a security guard escorting somebody out. You know, it's like the president himself getting involved. And it just was not a good look. After this incident, he has since apologized. He posted on his Instagram story. He is on leave as of now. He had already been talking about potentially retiring soon in recent months. So I wonder if he's even going to come back. Speaker 2 (3:31) I didn't realize the retirement. That's interesting. I have a hunch you are right. Speaker 1 (3:35) He had just said it in an interview that he was thinking about maybe like letting someone else take over sometime soon. And I mean, now is a good excuse. Speaker 2 (3:44) Yeah, it's interesting. I mean, how many times have we seen Stephen Kolb in the front row? Like he's been to a lot of shows. I'm sure he's seen PETA at a lot of shows as we all have. I mean, this has been going on for decades. I can remember when going to the DKNY show and they were chanting. I wrote it down. I was Speaker 1 (4:03) like, Speaker 2 (4:03) DKNY, how many animals have to die? Like it was in my head for like months because they just said it so many times. But anyway, yeah, they really, they've been around. around. And I think that we know like they have run, become more maybe intrusive Speaker 1 (4:18) in the runway shows and run Speaker 2 (4:20) across runways and held signs. And I mean, not great for the designer, obviously. But there's a lot of leather going around a lot, a lot of things that Peter probably hates that they do hate. So anyway, I just would say it's come to be expected at this point in time and to, for whatever I do. I don't know if you can say that, but I would just say harmless in the overall scheme of things. Like, they're not going to hurt somebody. So, yeah, it did seem like an extreme measure. I don't think he'll be back either. Yeah, it was a really bad look. Speaker 1 (4:54) And like you said, I've seen him at many shows. I've met him. I've interviewed him. I saw him at the Kallmeyer show a couple days before sitting across from me, and he was just very calm and mild-mannered. He also, and the New York Times reported this, he is a vegetarian and is also instrumental in... the CFDA not promoting fur on the runway anymore. And this season was actually the first one since that decision was made where there was no fur in any of the official calendar shows. So it is a little ironic that right at this kind of like big moment for doing less animal cruelty on the runway, this occurred. Yeah, it's I don't know if he'll be back. But one more thing. And you're right. Like, I've seen disruptions before. And I'm I'm probably I'm vegetarian, too. And I'm probably more sympathetic than than some other people would be. But I feel like a lot of times you kind of just let it go. And then, like you said, I've never seen them like the protesters like harm anybody or anything like that. So. Obviously, if I was the designer, I would be pretty annoyed, but I feel like a lot of times it passes by without much incident. And I think this made it into a way bigger deal than it needed to be. Speaker 2 (6:04) Totally. And I'd be annoyed at my PR. How'd they get in here without a ticket? Yes. Speaker 1 (6:10) Yeah, that too. Okay, let's talk about another new thing. How about you share one? What's something new you saw? Speaker 2 (6:18) Yeah, I've got a lot of things, but I would just say one thing that was noticeable to me, and I don't know if I want to call it wearability or practicality, but, you know, things seemed a little bit more casual. And to me, that read as accessible, and maybe it's a sign of the times in terms of the economy. But I would say more brands offering something that you would probably wear in everyday life. Maybe offering an entry point to the brand. And that came to mind because when I was talking to the designers behind Tanner Fletcher, Tanner and Fletcher, they were talking about the t-shirt that they have. This for them wasn't new, but they were talking about that it's Speaker 1 (6:58) a Speaker 2 (6:58) hot seller. It's under $200, maybe $160. And that they are doing it in new ways every season. Other examples, Sergio Hudson, I think of his gowns and his structured suits. He had a knit cardigan that maybe I hadn't seen before. And Campilo had a graphic tee, a lot of graphic tees, which don't know him for that. Jeans at Alta Zara, that felt new. A lot of jeans at Retrofit. They've had jeans before, but it seemed like an abundance of